Trees (and Shrubs) For Free!

Why not try your hand at propagating some trees and/or shrubs?

Not all species are easy to grow from cuttings, but many will respond to your care and effort. When the saplings or plants are established, you can plant them in your own yard, or ask friends and family members if they will give them a home.

Some trees and many shrubs can be propagated from stem cuttings. They are considered ‘clones’ of the tree they were cut from. Birch, fig, cedar, fir, magnolia, dogwood and ginkgo can all be started from cuttings. So can roses, forsythia, privet hedges, and much more.

It is suggested we start many more cuttings than we want, as not all of them will survive. However, many believe in the power of love, prayer and encouraging words to help them live and root!

There are three different kinds of cuttings – softwood, semi-hardwood, and hardwood. Some species are more likely to root with one type than another, while some are easy to root at any time.

Softwood cuttings bend easily, and are taken in the summer. Spruce, viburnum, birch, azalea, broom, crabapples, dogwood, as well as blueberries and privet are among those that can root from softwood cuttings.

Semi-hardwood cuttings are less flexible, and are taken in the summer or fall. Poplar and quince cuttings are among those best propagated as semi-hardwood cuttings.

As the name suggests, hardwood cuttings are the least bendable, and are taken while the tree or plant is dormant, in winter or early spring, before growth starts. Because they don’t have leaves, these cuttings are less susceptible to drying out. Figs, pomegranates, mulberries, quince, and some plums are easily propagated from hardwood cuttings, as well as grapes, kiwis, black currants, red currants, golden currants and gooseberries.

Many species can be propagated at more than one time of year. Check the link below to find which type of cutting the tree you want to propagate may require. If your tree or shrub is not listed, do an internet search for how to propagate it. Or try starting some of each type, and see which works.

https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/plant-propagation-by-stem-cuttings-instructions-for-the-home-gardener

Fill your pot with well-draining (sandy) soil, or a mixture of half peat, half perlite or sand, and then moisten it.
Take cuttings from young branches of healthy trees. Use sharp, clean pruning shears – a sharp cut heals more quickly than a ragged one, so is less likely to allow pests or disease to attack the tree. Early morning is considered the best time to take cuttings, when the tree contains the most moisture. Cut a section of current growth from the branch tip, about 6 to 10 inches long. Remove any flowers or buds so energy will be directed to growing roots instead.
If there are leaves, remove them from the lower half of the cutting. With a sharp knife, cut a thin strip of bark from either side of the cut end. Dip in rooting or hormone compound, available at garden stores.
Press the cut end of the branch into the moist soil, until half, or at least one-third of the cutting is buried. Take care not to plant them upside-down. If you’re planting more than one in each pot, make sure all the leaves can receive light. (Some cuttings may also root in a jar of water.)
If you’re growing several kinds of cuttings, be sure to label them.
It’s essential to keep the cuttings from drying out, or they will die. You can keep them in a greenhouse, but you can also just cover the pot with a plastic bag, sealed with an elastic or string, to keep humidity in. Water when dry. Regular misting can also help. Keep the plant away from direct sunlight.
Be patient… some cuttings may take a long time to root. As long as the cutting hasn’t dried out or died, it may still be working on producing roots. (Don’t forget those prayers and encouraging words.)
Once the cutting has rooted and new growth appears, you can transplant it into a pot with regular soil. Water when the top inch of soil is dry. For the best chances of success, wait until the fall of the cuttings’ second year to transplant into a permanent spot. Choose the spot wisely – make sure you understand how much room the mature tree and its roots will need, and whether its needs for light, drainage, etc. will be met in that spot.
Remember to keep watering regularly (weekly, even in winter, if there is no rain) for at least one more year, to help the tree develop a strong healthy root system.

When you have lots of young saplings, you could even offer free trees on craigslist!

One man in Chennai, India has started a ‘tree bank’. Volunteers grow saplings from seeds, then the saplings are offered free to anyone who promises to care for them:

https://www.thehindu.com/features/downtown/tree-bank-making-waves-in-the-city/article3425195.ece

More details on hardwood cuttings: https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/propagating-hardwood-cuttings/

More about herbaceous cuttings: https://deepgreenpermaculture.com/diy-instructions/propagating-herbaceous-plants-from-cuttings/